Often the first signs of autumn’s arrival are visible at the local market. Far ahead of the turning of the leaves, the first orange hues to appear are those of the squashes and tubers displayed on the stalls of the traders. Like old friends not seen for a year, the appearance of these vegetables brings a comforting warmth.
One of the first to rear its head in South-West France is the potimarron. With a colour that is a more saturated hue than that of the gourds which are carved at the end of October, the potimarron outclasses the conventional pumpkin on both taste and practicality. Its name, attributed to its nutty flavour, is a French portmanteau of potiron (pumpkin) and marron (chestnut). At just over a kilogram in weight, it doesn’t take up all of the space in your shopping tote nor are you left wondering what you are going to do with all of it.
I believe it not coincidence, but rather nature’s intention that the squash harvest begins as the mercury falls. Having enjoyed a summer of light dishes, the desire for warming, hearty food returns and these sweet vegetables make for the most satisfying soups. Squashes are starchy vegetables and through time spent in a strong oven they caramelise, developing and deepening their flavours. The skin of this variety need not be peeled as it offers a pleasing texture when eaten and besides, it is to be blended.
Commence by halving the potimarron, scooping out the seeds before slicing in to chunks. Plenty of olive oil will aid the roasting process and the addition of woody herbs is more than welcome. As the squash transforms in the oven, sweat brunoise onions and garlic in butter on the stove top until translucent. Cover with a generous amount of white wine, reduce and intensify. Now stock is added to the pan and again some reduction, but not too much, this is the liquid that will loosen the soup so you shall need a fair amount. Transfer the roasted potimarron to a blender and blitz with a small amount of cayenne pepper for a little warmth. Now pour in the stock, how much liquid is added is entirely based on your preference, it’s important to add this slowly to arrive at the consistency you desire. Instinctively, salt will have been added to the potimarron and to the onions, but now taste and adjust the seasoning.
To elevate a soup it needs to be dressed. It’s important to bring in texture to add contrast to what would otherwise be a bowl of liquid. On this occasion a loaf of walnut bread was in the basket and so hearty croutons were sautéed in plenty of butter and seasoned liberally. The walnuts adding an earthiness that compliments the squash very well. Although not having it to hand, frying some sage in the same pan would be a worthy inclusion.
And so, warm the soup in a saucepan before ladling in to a wide bowl. Pour a tablespoon of double cream around the soup to decorate and add richness. Top with the croutons, and the sage if you had it. The trustworthy avidity of a little chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon will lift the soup. Finally a generous crack of your pepper mill. Summer may have gone, but all the better for it.
